Yes, wine is also a young thing

Anonim

Reading time 11 minutes

Three of them with their own project and one more recently incorporated into the very young family winery, are clear that their future is wine, although they like a different aspect.

Knowing how they think and how they have fallen into this liquid trap (to unbelievers I say that it is so, almost like a trap in which you find yourself trapped without realizing it, although then you do not want to leave anymore) can serve to glimpse if this wine It has a future or will continue to be a thing of outdated old men or irredentual snobs .

1. WOMAN ON WINE: JULIA CASADO (Murcia, 1984). The Land, Bullas.

So of the terrain that it is like an earthquake of telluric energy. Julia, Juliet for friends, stepped on a vineyard at age 21, when she studied music in the Palatinate.

Yes, because this woman, whose family has no connection with wine, is a professional cellist. And that, he says, is serving him a lot when he goes to his vineyards in Bullas : I go to the vineyard and see harmonies, beauty, silences … A beautiful background to develop your agricultural project.

Restless ass where there are, he studied, also, oenology, because at one time he chose more for wine than for music, and his end-of-career work focused on the monastrell, Mediterranean grape par excellence.

From studies he went to practice in wineries such as Vega Sicilia, in Ribera del Duero, or Fournier, in the Argentine Uco Valley .

For those places, where he sometimes asked to see vineyard and they did not leave him, he knew that his thing was not a “tie oenology”, as he calls it, and he went to the field: “You cannot be cult without cultivating, without contact with the land, ”says this farmer cellist, who has just built her own modular warehouse with train sleepers and that, if there is anyone interested, look for grantees for the grape harvest.

Mujer pisando uvas (La del Terreno)

“You cannot be cult without cultivating, without contact with the land” © La del Terreno

Although he began to make his first wine in the 2015 harvest in Jumilla, he moved to the nearby (and more unknown) Bullas for the next harvest. And there it has been installed, captivated by the freshness it obtains in monastrell wines. Now, with its incipient project, it has two red wines on the market, La del Terreno and La Cañada del Jinete, with the Mediterranean as the protagonist, although the first wine also includes a very scarce grape, the valentí.

His idea of ​​the viticulture of the future is optimistic, he sees that those who return to the village and the countryside do so with a look of affection for tradition after having formed in a cosmopolitan environment, having tried other things.

One phrase : “Wine is artistic, creative, like music. It connects with the territory, with whom it interprets it and, above all, it is shared. It catalyzes relationships between people. ”

A wine: … or more. Among its fetish producers, Silica, 4 Kilos, Eloi Cedo, Fernando Angulo… “I adore people who are crazy, who are not afraid”.

El vino como arte

Wine as art © Photo by Elisha Terada on Unsplash

2. THINK GREEN: AGUSTÍ TORELLÓ ROCA (San Sadurní d'Anoia, 1990) Ànima Mundi

It gives a bit of vertigo to talk to someone with such talent, consistency in their words and that was born in the 90s!

Torelló Roca, an oenologist titled by the Rovira i Virgili University of Barcelona and son and grandson of winemakers, seemed predestined since being a child he accompanied his father everywhere or pretended summers working in the grandfather's family winery, Agustí Torelló Mata .

"I am the eldest of three brothers and no one else is dedicated to wine, but with my father's passion for this world, I either hated it, or got into my head, " he says.

What engages this wine maker who has breathed since he was little is to be able to relate to nature, the countryside, and have the opportunity to print his interpretation of the year in each harvest : “I love being able to keep a bottle, condense a landscape, create something that can make someone happy ”.

A romantic vision that developed in a breeding ground as own as Sant Sadurní D'Anoia, cradle of cava, where who else, who less, is dedicated to wine.

Of course, some of his friends are as freaks as he is, but not all of them, and when they go to a restaurant, they "tell me to choose wine", because they notice that fear they have to make a mistake when asking; but Agustí argues: "I do not understand music and that does not prevent me from choosing a CD", although he acknowledges that there is language in the wine that scares.

A shared publication of AT Roca (@atroca_wines) on Feb 26, 2018 at 5:49 PST

Torelló Roca finished his studies and went to work in wineries abroad, in Argentina and in Champagne, here learning with Bruno Michel and understanding “the old wine world” and reaffirming an idea that he maintains when making his own wines: working with grapes Penedès, an area where he has just launched Ànima Mundi, a more personal project than the one he already set up with his father a few years ago, AT Roca, and where he produces magnificent sparkling wines and quiet wines from different areas near Sant Sadurní .

Ànima Mundi

"Anima Mundi is to become aware that nature, as it is best expressed, is when it flows" © Ànima Mundi

Although he is barely consolidating a promising career, the winemaker is clear that the future of wine is to produce fresh, accessible and drinkable products, "not runway" and that evoke the landscape. He is convinced that we will like less manipulated wines, with soul, that hook us but that (well!) Are easy to drink . Eye, not lacking in complexity, but simple.

That is why in Ànima Mundi it has been focused on producing wines from the countryside (“I do not conceive wine without eco, biodynamic or integrated viticulture, but always more physical and less chemical”) with Penedès grapes and sparkling ancestral “because it is the method minimal intervention ”to make this type of wine.

A shared publication of AT Roca (@atroca_wines) on Feb 14, 2018 at 8:35 PST

It is clear, and I can only agree when I hear him, that "the defect in wine is what prevents you from defining where it comes from, what is the variety with which it is made and adds it". There is that.

One sentence: “In your life you have about 45 opportunities to make the best wine, you don't have to waste any”.

A wine : Authentic geek, recommends the champagnes of Charles Dufour and confesses that his fetish cellar is Recaredo, where he recommends the Serral del Vell cava. He also liked, he adds, O Tesouro, from Viña Somoza, Albarello de Valdeorras.

3. FEEL FREAK: DIEGO LOSADA (Ponferrada, 1984). La Senda Wineries and Vineyards

This Ponferradino winegrower defines himself as " lonely and somewhat freak", child warrior and delivered to the field, and his family, as an adult.

Reader of Poe and Lovecraft, he did not know until recently more than ten years ago that wine was his thing. After studying chemistry and having gone through a couple of wineries, he thought of making his own wine "but not as a white winemaker, " he says, recalling those laboratory moments.

First he rented vineyards and with the money of the settlement and the unemployment he bought his first barrels in 2008. He opted for an area little known in the Bierzo, near Las Médulas, where he loves to work in rough terrain and in solitude. And he began his life project, professional and personal, because then, remember, his first son was also on his way.

This is how Bodegas La Senda was born and, also, the first wine in a collection that now makes up five. That first one is called 1984, because it was when Diego was born, but also because he does not depart from that geek point that haunts him like the cloud to the Pink Panther.

Diego Losada lo tiene claro

Diego Losada is clear about it © Facebook / Bodegas y Viñedos La Senda

Diego makes wine for what he has as creative, he is fascinated by that freedom that makes him transform grapes into a “biological soup” full of life. In addition, it is committed to the natural current, to dispense with pesticides, insecticides and exercise control in the winery, but only that: control. "In the cellar I do nothing, because if you know how to guide the procedure, you are not risking."

Of course, it is very clear, like Julia, like Agustí, that not treating the vineyard does not mean not working it. On the contrary, cleaning, he emphasizes, is fundamental (because when we talk about natural wines, the word “piggy” appears sooner or later in the conversation), and he bases everything, as a good chemist, on a set of organic processes, a war fratricide among yeasts, bacteria and sugars: "It is the law of the strongest . " He is not afraid to talk about chemistry: "Breathing is chemistry, and it is the most natural thing there is."

Although he has a lonely guy, while I talk with him he plays with his little boy in the park after a day's work in the field, and reflects on the wines that come : “They are only going to be left or very large, or different "

He adds that young people, like the rest, are conditioned by the environment, a Big Brother who directs tastes, and claims an alternative culture where they have more freedom to choose.

As a good freak, he is not too optimistic and sees a future where he drinks less wine and in concrete redoubts, although it opens a door to salvation if people like him, or his colleagues who embark on personal projects, manage to get out of homogeneity and They set up their own personality.

One sentence: "I don't want the scuba in the vineyard"

A wine: Ribolla Gialla 2014, by Dario Princic (Venezia Giulia, Italy), a white that Diego defines as “pure perfume”.

Sólo quedan los grandes… o los diferentes

Only the big ones remain … or the different ones © Facebook / Bodegas y Viñedos La Senda

4. TO THE RENDERS: NATALIA GOLDING (Madrid, 1986). Thessaly wineries

It is one of the most recent additions of these young people to the world of wine, more than anything because the company he directs, at the moment, with his father in Arcos de la Frontera (Cádiz), has just released his first vintages.

But what Golding had always thrown at him, since childhood, was the horse. She is a professional Amazon and continues to compete, although that has not prevented her from getting a degree in Business Administration and Management .

After spending seasons completely devoted to horse riding, Natalia considered what to do with her life after the horse, a profession that she defines as “very hard, very picky” and, in addition, very expensive to maintain.

A shared publication of Bodega Tesalia (@bodegatesalia) on May 30, 2018 at 10:00 PDT

While she was training to compete, her parents, Richard and Francesca Golding, had bought a farm in Arcos de la Frontera, in principle, to continue horse breeding and also dedicate it to family retirement.

But his father, an entrepreneur who came to work in Spain in the 80s and decided to stay in a country he loves, thought of planting a vineyard. And the Thessaly project appeared on the panorama, for which Richard Golding hired as an advisor to the winemaker Ignacio de Miguel and who also has the collaboration of the Dutch Master of Wine Cees Van Casteren .

Golding threw the hook to Golding junior and she stung, although, a purebred competitor, wanted to train in viticulture and oenology before joining the winery, which was already beginning to take its first steps in 2014: “It cost me, especially chemistry, but I took it out. I think I got that competitive spirit deep down. ”

Natalia became fond of and, with De Miguel, losing the fear of not having, not developing, tasting ability, to differentiate one wine from another. "Ignacio reassured me, told me that this is practical." Training, like that of the horse. And seeing what he learned was motivating him, he let go.

“I understand wine as enjoyment, as a total experience that is part of a whole, of a culture” and that is why it believes that it will not disappear. He is fascinated by that capacity of endurance of the wines with years and knows that he cannot be confused, he has to continue forming: “I am lucky to have been born in a house where the wine has always been present” and is now studying at the WSET ( Wine and Spirit Education Trust, a prestigious British organization that forms, among others, future Masters of Wine).

With it, the wine has gained a new adept, completely hooked and that has not lost the competing spirit: “Thessaly is a project where I have put all the illusion. I want our wines to be among the best ”.

One sentence: "Whenever I am with my friends, I encourage you to insist on wine. This, the more you try it, the more you like it."

A wine: Dofí, by Álvaro Palacios, in Priorat, is “a wine that I love”, although “a couple of days ago I opened Arx (one of the wines he makes in Thessaly) and I was pleasantly surprised”.

El mundo de los caballos y del vino, la pasión de la familia Golding

The world of horses and wine, the passion of the Golding family © Bodega Tesalia