From beach to beach along the coast of Huelva (I): from Punta Umbría to El Rompido


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There is a pasodoble that sings “my Huelva has a river and with velvet beaches…”, and despite the years, it is still right. The Costa de la Luz continues to boast of glare reflected in its white sand, in its crystalline waters … And although it looks suspiciously at Cádiz, because they share nature - and it does not have so much fame -, this lack of recognition makes silence still heard Among its dunes.

The route begins. 15 kilometers from the Huelva capital, and crossing its famous estuary, is Punta Umbría. Tip of sand and pine trees, it is bathed by the Odiel River and the Atlantic. It was a summer resort for the English - yes, those of the mines, those who brought football to our country - and hopefully, there is still some English house from that time.

El Portil

El Portil Beach, Punta Umbría © Alamy

For a few years you can enjoy a House-Museum, located at the entrance, to get an idea of ​​what this coastal town was like. Few locals visit it, but it is always a claim for the tourist who fills its beaches … Which by the way, is also local.

Because Punta Umbría is a lifelong beach, full of umbrellas planted with well-known beer brands and well-known moisturizer brands. Its meters and meters of sand are home to Huelva but also Sevillians and even people from Madrid who discovered this paradise and come back every summer. Who goes, wants to return.

There is no better known beach bar on the Huelva coast than Mosquito Club, El Mosquito for everyone. Hippie temple crowned by an Arab shop - through which youths of all ages have passed - and through which Laura Sánchez model goes through a lot, in addition to the pihippie people in the area. Ojito with the style, which has to be worked without looking like it.

Concerts almost every day - the best are Wednesdays - delicious mojitos, windusrf classes and good vibes are the keys to the success of this chiringo. A classic in the afternoon of Punta in the same Punta de los Ingleses.

Continuing towards Portugal, and with the ocean on our left, we walk through the sand and arrive at El Tabla … Or El Tabla Beach Club, officially. A wooden beach bar that delights the young pijolis that summer in this area of ​​the beach.

El Tabla

El Tabla, a good option to have the first drink in the afternoon © Facebook El Tabla Beach Club

Carolina Herrera junior summer there. At noon, families in a swimsuit and striped cotton shirt, and in the afternoon, people who decide to have the first drink. Because in Andalusia it starts soon.

We continue walking and we arrive at Miramar, a restaurant with large windows and many tables, a meeting point for the family meals of the Puntaumbrieños, where you can enjoy the famous coquinas or fresh fish of great quality. Table and cloth tablecloth for somewhat more formal meals.

If we continue the walk along the Playa de la Bota, we will not only hallucinate with the measures of it - that the Cadizians laugh at - we will arrive - looking at Google Maps, of course - at Ancora Street … And in the end, Casa Gaspar, the restaurant “Modern” of this area of ​​Punta Umbría.

Food with good raw materials that Gaspar Son sells with a bit of avant-garde. Although you can find the usual, which never fails: quality frying. It has its own rooms, a good austere option very close to the beach.

Río Odiel Huelva

The Odiel River as it passes through Punta Umbría © Alamy

In Punta Umbría there is no promenade as such, there is a promenade that overlooks the estuary, which is precisely on the shore opposite the beach. The stately homes are concentrated here . When the wind breathes heavily, some people take their boats to enjoy the water next to the Maritime Club, overlooking Huelvayork.

There is no plan more punuambrieño than taking a friend's zodiac and bathing with a view of this municipality. Although why fool ourselves, having La Bota, better stay there … To enjoy one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world. Just check it on Instagram. The range of oranges and roses that can be counted is infinite. This is when Punta, as you will call her with love, steals your heart.

Leaving the beach area a bit, and following the gastronomic recommendations, if you ask any place where to eat, they will tell you: Los Coloraos. And if you look at Google, you may think that you have been hesitated, but no, it's called The Zone.

Because restaurants, like people, also have their own lifelong nicknames. It is impossible not to forget your tasty choco meatballs, your stuffed choco or your potato omelette with parsley. Because the choco is one more inhabitant in this area of ​​Andalusia, another companion in the meals. Hence, the natives are "choqueros" and with great pride.

El Rompido

El Rompido, mandatory stop on the route of the Huelva beaches © Alamy

If you walk through Punta Umbría, an interesting mix of cultures will be checked. From an Arab medina with white streets - you just have to walk through El Cerrito to check it out - an English town with its British-inspired homes, a little dot of the Balearic island through its houses of large white-painted porches and curtains of the same color.

And many of these streets and houses have traces of sand on sidewalks and gardens. There are those who claim to arrive at the center as a young person walking barefoot because there was no asphalt.

And if you walk through the center –and with shoes–, you will arrive at Calle Ancha, the nerve center of prawn offerings –the white one of Huelva, of course! -, of ice cream parlors, flip-flops and towel stores.

Meeting point for all those who spend the summer there and meet late and every night to walk for a while and greet the neighbors. Lose the glamor of the coast, but it is so authentic that it is impossible that you do not like it.

El Rompido

El Rompido, mandatory stop on the route of the Huelva beaches © iStock

And next to its Wide Street, its “no” promenade, its infinite beach, its picturesque restaurants… One should not miss an ice cream in the Plaza Pérez Pastor, soak up history with the small Almenara Tower of the 16th century, take a look at the club of British tennis or the parish church of the architect Miguel Fisac.

Nor a little glass in El Cerrito - yes, that English house full of people near the chapel Our Lady of Lourdes - dipping bread in the oil of the kitchens - that is called a little boat, a lifetime - walk around the market and check what fresh fish is and enjoy its adjoining bars, taste the choco eggs, read the story of "the man who never existed" sitting on the sand, watch the sunset … And reserve a little house, for next year . Just in case.

Enebrales alt=

Natural Reserve of Los Enebrales, in Punta Umbría © Alamy

And if Punta Umbría knows little, an option for more days and continue the route: take the car and set course - listening to Manuel Carrasco soundtrack - El Portil and Nuevo Portil. A road that crosses a natural space of pines and dunes.

With less charm than Punta and a lot of urbanization, it is a quick point to have a drink overlooking the Atlantic. Surfer-style bars seen from the road can be a good option. Like the Marlin Blue.

But we continue, that the best is yet to come - it is essential to stop breathing in the viewpoint Flecha de El Rompido -. It's time to download the music because the last stop on the route is the fishing village of El Rompido, the most luxurious corner of the route.

Marlin Huelva

Marlin Blue, surfing environment overlooking the Atlantic © Facebook Marlin Blue Terrace

With several four and five star hotels - Hotel Fuerte El Rompido is a classic - it also has a luxury urbanization with its own lake. But the best is out. Its El Faro shopping center - it is what Madrid has so much vacationing there - has several bars with stunning views of the Piedras River, such as El Panorámico.

Going down the slope, we find the very modern El Horizontal, a cocktail bar with a mix of Bali and Ibiza that gives a touch of posture to the area.

And to fill the stomach? It is essential to book in El Caribe II.

Huelva word.

El Horizontal

The Horizontal, because a little posturing never hurt anyone © Horizontal Beach Club