Rolenka, the real and definitive gastronomic oasis in the throbbing of Madrid

Anonim

Reading time 5 minutes

And as everything in this life is spread, we fall in love a little more with Spanish food here and forever.

"I want to leave everything and go to disconnect, " is the definitive phrase of our Friday afternoons or the days mired in the routine. But we don't need it anymore, at least get too far away, because in the biggest bustle you can find the best of the oases. Welcome to Rolenka.

La chef ucraniana, Olena Ros

The Ukrainian chef, Olena Ros © Rolenka

7 months ago, more specifically on November 17 , the little Margarita of the cook Olena Ros was born, and a month later, on December 10, her other little girl was born: Rolenka.

Therefore, Rolenka is synonymous with effort, courage and dedication, and Olena the clear example that if it is done for love, it goes well, even if it costs and is hard. All that love of a few months of pregnancy turned into a result: a restaurant in which to put on the stove what was learned about Spanish gastronomy at the Le Cordon Bleu school together with the tradition and inspiration of his family and his country, Ukraine.

The atmosphere inside is first and foremost unexpected, and we would stay here forever. Arriving at number 30 of the main street, large windows make us squint. We seem to be protagonists in the desert, seeing an oasis that takes us almost involuntarily inwards, our inertia yields, we need that tranquility, we need that environment. We enter and, indeed, everything changes. We exchanged a sway of people for one of flavors.

Uno de los platos estrellas de Rolenka, pato confit

One of Rolenka's star dishes, duck confit © Rolenka

Rolenka is modern and welcoming, they immediately serve us. On the table, some small flowers in the vase, the rest of the vegetation, with acylated and elliptical plants, recreates a tropical environment in which to relax; the blue and light tones of the wood give us calm ; the lighting makes us feel at home, also with very comfortable sofas, and the attention along with the food gives us the delicacy with which the chef has thought each dish. In general, the place conveys to us the well-being of the Spanish capital.

Yes, Rolenka is the new place to go if you love good Mediterranean food . And all thanks to Olena, Ukrainian chef (surprise!), Whose essence can be seen in the dishes. That in Ukraine they have a different alphabet does not mean that the same thing happens with food. We notice the perfect fusion in both decoration and flavors.

Mixes ranging from chestnut and apple puree, chocolate potato, strawberries and wakame … A combination that fills and fills a menu of traditional dishes of Spanish and Mediterranean food, but with avant-garde brushstrokes that update them and give them a unique touch and special.

Its gastronomic proposal could be defined as “warm quality”, Olena tells Traveler.es. For lunch, she recommends the duck confit with orange sauce and mashed potatoes or the one she places as her favorite and star dish: the veal cheek with creamy polenta and black truffle sauce. "We do a confit massage to relax the muscle, " he explains, showing the care in each dish.

He also recommends of course the croquettes of carabineros, and a restaurant diner points out: "we should not give courage to ask for the most typical before a letter full of suggestive novelties". Perhaps, the litmus test of a traditional restaurant to know if it is valid or not, is to try precisely its most traditional dish. This is what we do, with the oxtail in chocolate rösti potato that left us speechless, or the fried artichokes. And finally, the best dessert for Olenka is the chocolate fondant.

La barra de Rolenka, especializado también en cócteles

Rolenka Bar, also specialized in cocktails © Rolenka

The axis on which his initial proposal revolved were bird dishes . Therefore, the logo that we observe as soon as we enter the restaurant at the entrance, which is a symbol of Rolenka, is a crane. Dishes with birds such as quail or pheasant, "but they are dishes that have little acceptance in Spain; we have to explain a lot how they are cooked, why they should order them …", says Olena. But it will not stop proposing more plans and organizing events to publicize this curious and different proposal.

They surprise us by serving us a Moji-tea. This is an unpublished version of the mojito, which reveals another of Rolenka's characteristics in addition to good gastronomy: signature cocktails that stand out both for their flavor and for their presentation, with the bartender Claudio Cracco. "You have to try the cocktails, everyone, each one is a show, " he says very convincing. Although he recommends Tiki Rolenka above all .

Tartar de atún con salsa de anacardos, fresa y wakame

Tuna tartare with cashew, strawberry and wakame sauce © Rolenka

In short, a team of 8 chefs who watches over a kitchen that reflects healthy living. For Olena it is precisely a very important aspect. Join and give lectures at Sens Women Club, "businesswomen in Ukraine who want to improve their lives". An example of perseverance is that you will continue studying at Le Cordon Bleu to never stop moving forward.

El interior del restaurante Rolenka

The interior of the Rolenka restaurant © Rolenka

ADDITIONAL FEATURES

It already has three restaurants in Kiev, Moscow and Odessa: one French (Matisse), and two Japanese restaurants (Fog Factory, "a chain of restaurants for young people who like shisha, " he explains).

And in Spain, Rolenka. Olenka is Olena's tiny fond in her country. And the R? The first letter of his last name, because as we noticed from the first moment, the family leaves a lot of mark on this place.

Will the next restaurant be called Margarita, like her daughter? We do not know, what we do know is that Olena is insatiable and her plan is to set up a chain of Rolenkas throughout Spain, to "enjoy time, eat well and drink well."

Dentro de Rolenka se respira pura intimidad y tranquilidad

Inside Rolenka you can breathe pure intimacy and tranquility © Rolenka

His grandmother, who taught him to cook, is his inspiration. Her husband, her third hand. And he looks at his daughter with love while proudly saying "the next generation of cooks, yes?" It is seen with the naked eye when we hear you explain everything.

His restaurant is his family, and in the family, of course, there is love. Transmitted and infected, we are delighted to also be part of this family now in the heart of Madrid .

Así es por dentro el restaurante de la chef ucraniana, Olena Ros

This is the inside of the restaurant of the Ukrainian chef, Olena Ros © Rolenka

In data

Address

Calle Mayor, 30, 28010 Madrid

Phone

916 85 91 22

Schedule

M and D from 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 a.m. Mondays closed.

Meals from 1:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. Dinner from 7:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.

Half price

30 euros, with menu of the day at 14.50 euros and tasting 35 euros.