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If there were doubts about what the latest gastronomic trend was, Carbón Negro has just opened in Madrid to discard them all and confirm it: the grill, the live coals, the hot coal is not another culinary tool or technique, it is the success of the moment. And in Black Coal, as its name announces, it was the origin of everything.
Carbón Negro was born from the union of several well-known Madrid hotel businessmen (Chiqui Calleja, Fernando Nicolás, Charlie Saiz…) with the idea of “bringing Basque coals of all life to Madrid”. To achieve this, they contacted one of the most experienced chefs in front of a grill in Madrid: Gonzalo Armas, trained in the Basque school of Luis Irizar, grown in Subijana, Santo Mauro, Goizeko Wellington and settled in the first restaurant in the capital that He had given importance to this technique, Filandón.
The embers are the protagonists. © Black Coal
“Seeing my career and my last years of work, they called me and told me what they had thought: they wanted to take the raw material and coal and embers to the center of Madrid, which are at a peak moment; and based on that base, look for products, seasons, travel around the peninsula to find the best products, ” explains Gonzalo Armas.
They called him while they were still building the premises. The gigantic place. The corner of Juan Bravo that occupied for many years the cafeteria La Flecha, of which there is no trace left because the design, in charge of the Singular Project, has taken advantage of the windows to fill the space with natural light, which becomes a Mountain house, with stone walls, wooden floors and warm colors. And as a good mountain house, and although it has more isolated and private rooms, the main rooms of its two floors and the large central bar have as a total protagonist the fire, the large grill of coals that directs Arms.
A huge bar that never closes. © Black Coal
“At the moment they trust me and give me all the possibilities and tools to work together with Josper's, the kitchen, the architect… It's like a dream, as if they give one the pieces of a puzzle to create whatever you want, ” says the chef, who has put in the center those embers in which to watch the show of a live kitchen.
In those embers, as Gonzalo Armas and his team "threw" soles, turbot, hake kokotxas, monkfish, sirloin and old beef cutlet from Jaizkibel, picantón chicken from farmhouse, cutlet of lamb, fresh asparagus, learned in the Basque Country from Navarra, red prawns, razors … The best product cooked in the most faithful way, as it preserves and enhances its flavors. Product they bring from all over Spain.
We introduce you to Gonzalo Armas, our executive chef. Formed in the best kitchens and now in front of the Black Coal stove? #CarbonNegro #Brasas A post shared by Carbón Negro (@carbon_negro) on May 4, 2018 at 4:51 am PDT
“We have divided the map looking for the best raw materials, we have gone to every place where we thought it was the best to see how to bring it to Madrid in good condition, ” says Armas. “In the end, the idea is that the customer knows that the supplier is an important part of the business, that we are committed to our suppliers and they are committed to us. That transmission of value is demanded by today's client: not to hide but to teach it ”.
The seafood is from Galicia and Huelva, the fish from Burela and Pasajes. Vegetables from Huerta Carabaña and Guzmán, the meat of the Basque Country and Segovia. Selected raw material with which also offers stews, good casserole. And that will be filling a letter totally linked to temporality.
Coconut trilogy. © Black Coal
“My career and influence with the people of the Basque Country has been important when it comes to taking off my career and they are the ones that make me think about cooking in another way, the reason for things, the importance of dedication and the search for the raw material, which is the most important thing for me, ”says Armas.
A raw material that can also be tasted in the Carbon Black bar, a separate chapter of the ambitious project, with a separate letter, more than a bar, with marinades, chacinas … and a very powerful cocktail proposal designed by Carlos Moreno, chief barman Larrumba Group, which is committed to the classics and among which, according to Instagram, there is already a winner: the bloody mary.
We want Black Carbon to feel the outside, the outdoors and the heat of the incipient summer. Are we as natural inside as outside? - #carbonnegro #brasas #natural #restaurant #restaurant #restaurants #design #interior #interiordesign #design #verano #summer A post shared by Carbon Black (@carbon_negro) on Jun 1, 2018 at 5:29 am PDT
Because you have to know the place that everyone is talking about and will continue talking. They have not been open for more than a month, but word of mouth flies. Their grilled fish well deserve that runrún shouting.
Two very important: the terrace (as soon as this weather permits) and desserts. Gonzalo Armas highlights them especially as a "sweet tooth" recognized. “I love pastries and I really like the sweet moment, the culmination of a good meal with a good dessert makes the experience completely different and I think in Madrid we sin a lot that there is no good end of the party, ” he says. “It was important for me and we have created our own bakery shop, I have recovered old Basque and French recipes. With butters, creams, real Italian ice creams ”.
A shared publication of Foodlab (@ foodlab2017) on Jun 5, 2018 at 4:41 p.m. PDT
BLACK CARBON CHEESE CAKE TO CARRY
Rice pudding, Santiago cake, flan… whatever you want, but Madrid has already spoken (on Instagram) and has a favorite: the creamy cheese cake. "It's the hit, " laughs Weapons, knowledgeable about the likes that his recipe accumulates on the networks.
“We started from La Viña in San Sebastián and working with my friends and former classmates at Luis Irizar's school, we started to take out the recipe and do tests: to remove starch and thickeners… and we get a super creamy day cake that doesn't you can neither put it in the chamber, nor spend a lot of temperature or cooking … It is the biggest nonsense, ”he says. But a success.
Such has been the success since the opening of the restaurant in 2018 that since February 2019 you can already reserve the cake to take it home. What you have to do? Book it 24 hours in advance on the phone 910 885 860 and go find it at the restaurant itself. Price: 50 euros. And they will be yours the ten wonderful portions.
This. In your house. Anytime. © Black Coal
* Article originally published on June 11, 2018 and updated on February 28, 2019 with new cheesecakes on request
Juan Bravo Street, 37
97 088 58 61
Sunday to Thursday from 12 to 2H. Friday and Saturday from 12 to 2:30 p.m.
€ 50 (and € 50 the order of the cake)