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Let's see, yes, that globalization also affects the world of wine and grapes that until recently seemed exotic in the homeland vineyards have been able to adapt and function, in some wines, very, very well.
PI (Ñ) OT NOIR ANDALUZA, AND OLÉ
It is worth the nod of Cañí accent to talk about one of the most appreciated grapes in the world, which in origin, if we can say so, is Burgundy.
Miles, the character played by Paul Giamatti in Entre Copas, said that he loved this grape because "it needs constant attention and care" and that it could not be found anywhere, but "in very specific remote corners of the world"
The passion that this little ink arouses, in addition to that “only the most patient and careful winemakers” can extract their full potential, has led a few winemakers and not a few winemakers to try to have a real romance with the pinot by planting it in various places .
Pinot Noir, one of the most appreciated grapes in the world © Getty Images
But one of the ones that I like the most, for daring and different (and who says that this is not the true spirit of the pinot, to be given) is the one that cultivates (and pampers) Bibi García in Ronda, in Cortijo The Aguilares.
Bibi says of his pinot that it is "like the rose of The Little Prince: subtle, elegant, that makes you fall in love but makes you suffer." But she, well punk, dares to elaborate it in this Andalusian farm at 900 meters above sea level, although “we need Japanese precision to take care of that garden that is our pinot noir vineyard”.
What happens when you take care of it and take care of it? Well, a spicy, wild wine comes out , with an explosion of fruits from the forest (blackberries, raspberries, blueberries), with mineral freshness and one of those rich, vivacious, fluid textures … An unusual and rebellious pinot that is a stripe for skimmers and Taliban of the "native".
La pinot noir: "subtle, elegant, that makes you fall in love but that makes you suffer, " says Bibi García © Bodega Cortijo Los Aguilares
15 years have passed since Garikoitz Rios and his team dared to make a white wine in the land of Txakoli. One moment, is that txakoli is not white wine? It is, now it is more assumed, but when they decided to skip the unwritten norms and make a more understandable txakoli for the "foreign" palates, the fundamentalists (those of the fundamental, which prevents them from understanding the evolution in viticulture) They accused of "not making txakoli, but white wine."
Having these spokesmen, who needs the SAR? The fact is that Rios, a guy full of ideas that seem crazy but have their point of sense, thought that these raw materials of traditional txakoli still needed a little rock and roll to convert a light, fresh and inconsequential wine In a serious thing.
And so he did. Riesling in Gernika, there it goes. The result is Itsasmendi 7, a wine with the name of the deposit where it is made that at the time was countercurrent and today is almost a classic, and that has, why not say, part of its greatness thanks to the great white Rhine.
Because the riesling, Basque, Basque, is not. But this white works and is understood wonderfully with the local hondarrabi zuri and hondarrabi zuri zerratie. Fresh, burly, mineral, complex, fine, with manor and acidity that ensures the survival (and improvement) with the bottle years.
Itsasmendi Winery is located in the heart (Gernika) of the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve © Itsasmendi Winery
TORRONTÉS IN RIOJA
The name sounds like Argentina, where several torrontés are cultivated (including a 'Rioja' that is used in La Rioja, in the country of Eva Perón) but what we are going to talk about here is, in fact, a variety more typical of the Central Spain (Ribera del Duero, León) that was cultivated in ancient times in La Rioja (now yes, Spain), almost extinct in the region and with a similar name, Turruntés, with which an intrepid winemaker, Abel Mendoza, began working a few years and that, to curl the curl more labels in its bottles as torrontés, although it is an unusual synonym to refer to this variety.
The fact is that he, and only he, makes a target labeled as 'torrontés' despite the fact that the Regulatory Council of the Denomination of Qualified Origin Rioja recommends “not to confuse” Turruntés (the Spanish Rioja) with the Argentine (or Galician) Torrontés, or Portuguese, which is also there).
And Mendoza, little by little, and from the branches of Turruntés that a fellow winegrower like him gave him, was recovering strains, slowly and slowly, and discovering that yes, that his torrontés, if heard, had a message.
Potential, he calls it, a potential guardian, he says, that "we are still discovering, " because there are not many vintages he has been working with, and yet his target is already known among the winelovers.
“Torrontés, neither eat it nor give it, which is good wine, ” says Mendoza who was recited by his grandfather. The Rioja has been understanding with her, with her fat grains, her low ph (which contribute to high acidity) and learning that you have to take care of her and, why not, be a little daring.
Mendoza is inventing a wine of this variety in Rioja, a unique white that is teaching him new ways. And to us, new flavors. And that is cool. A lot.
Yes, the Garnacha is ours, very ours, and it is one of the inks that most extend through the skin of bulls, but getting close to the Spanish southeast, despite being a variety that gets along well with the Mediterranean, it was not so clear … until José María Vicente showed that yes, that Garnachism reached those latitudes.
Such a homeland variety could not work badly if it can be treated as it does, respecting its long cycle and drawing inspiration from a famous Grenache wine enclave, southern France, with great Garnachist wines such as those from Châteuneuf du Pape.
That made him decide and look for a kind of respite by planting grapes that would allow him to have a wider harvest in time than by only having monastrell (native Jumilla grape, where his property is located).
The result is the magnificent and, why not, rare, El Molar, made only with garnacha (eye, ink, not to be confused with a dry cleaner, much more implanted in the area and traditionally used to give color …) and capable to transmit as well as it does in other areas (Gredos, Rioja, Aragón, Priorat) that landscape, this time, Mediterranean: it is mature, cheerful, with a moderate point of opulence, with freshness and lots of fruit, tasty … pure pleasure.
Murcia grenache is one of the inks that most extends through the skin of bull © Getty Images