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Fetish shoemakers, Madrid has a new place of worship: The English Court of Serrano now welcomes Francesco Russo's designs in Spain. Taking advantage of your visit to Madrid, we have had a coffee with Victoria Beckham's fetish shoemaker to discover, among other things, that he speaks perfect Spanish.
The creator of Saint Laurent's famous “ Tribute” shoes, which also went through Miu Miu, Sergio Rossi and Dior, is now, with his own signature, one of Amy Adams or Jessica Chastain's favorites. All these collaborations, he tells us, have been very interesting and enriching. "I have a very good memory, but when I do something for my own brand it's about my story."
Francesco Russo © Courtesy of Francesco Russo
What kind of woman do you have in mind when you create the chapters of that story? “A dynamic, active woman… Not an object of desire. I like her to seduce, I like strong women . ”
For the first time, the designs of its brand, created six years ago, can be purchased physically in Spain, thanks to the corner that has just opened in El Corte Inglés, number 27 of Serrano, in Madrid . “For us this location is very special, because it is one of the most boutique spaces that El Corte Inglés has, a very elegant and sophisticated corner”
Flasgship of Francesco Russo in Paris
When designing, Russo is interested in how something modern becomes a classic. “I am passionate about the concepts of proportion, moderation, the idea of beauty of Ancient Greece and Rome. I don't want to create a fashion product, but something timeless, that the woman keeps in her closet for a long time. "
And he adds: "I am of a very free nature. Everything I see is recorded in my memory and then I throw that idea and many inspiring memories come to me. For me the creative process goes through a search, from a trigger like a movie, an exhibition or a woman who crossed me on the street ”.
This was the restaurant on which the Francesco Russo flagship was built in Paris © Courtesy of Francesco Russo
Specifically, for the collection that is now available at El Corte Inglés de Serrano, he found some reference in Tiffany's lamps . It also shows influences of the mythical two-colored Chanel shoe (beige with black toe), which was born as sports shoes that were used and then popularized the Duchess of Windsor. Francesco versions them with a slightly asymmetric line. "The period of the 20s and 30s is very inspiring."
Of course, he likes things with history: his flagship next to Palais Royal, in Paris (at No. 8 on rue de Valois), was built on an old restaurant called Le Bouef à la Mode, which closed its doors in 1936. In its space, craftsmanship is the protagonist and, in fact, retains this spirit of the restaurant with a 'à la carte' customization section.
They also have a service called The Patina to manually color the pieces.
The corner of Francesco Russo in El Corte Inglés de Serrano © Courtesy of Francesco Russo
Francesco lives between Milan, Paris and, above all, Lugano . What he loves about this Swiss city in which Italian is spoken, an idyllic enclave on the shore of Lake Ticino, is the tranquility that is breathed and the contact with nature. There, one of his favorite places is a restaurant called Grotto San Roco which is accessed by boat, "a delight, especially in summer".
A little comes to Madrid (here he likes hotels like the Seven Islands : “Actually, I don't like the ones that are too elegant, I like to feel at home”), but the capital is one of his favorite destinations next to Los Angeles and Rio de Janeiro
"From Los Angeles I love its proximity to the sea and nature, and that at the same time it has a lot of design, art, concerts … but without the agglomeration of people suffering from New York." Of the Big Apple he likes, however, energy. "But it lacks space, " he jokes.
Fall Winter 2018/19 Collection by Francesco Russo © Courtesy of Francesco Russo
He travels more for work than pleasure, but Francesco is an expert in packing: “Mine is rather minimalist. I plan the looks I will wear on each trip - he declares himself a fan of firms such as COS, Comme des Garçons, Converse and Polo Ralph Lauren - and then I carry a bag with my creams, another with dental gadgets and one more with medicines ”.
As for his future plans, he is clear: “As Carla Sozzani says, you have to dream big. I would like to replicate the Paris boutique in different parts of the world. The world is now virtual and viral but I am nostalgic. That is why we have come to the English Court in Madrid, we want an atelier of my firm in Spain.