Your new favorite restaurant in Madrid is this Peruvian: Luma, or the union of cultures

Anonim

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Some time ago we used to go to this place, the old Meating, next to the door of Alcalá, to eat fantastic meat and some top burgers. More than a spatial reference this means a good start, a gesture of complicity to the taste memory to take the new visit with desire.

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The best ceviches in Spain

Although it is no longer about t- bone steaks, rather ceviches, slush of tiger milk, oysters and exotic fruit trampantojos; because here the one in charge now is the Peruvian chef Omar Malpartida, who has returned to surprise you (yes, again) with everything that had not surprised us already in his other Madrid adventures: Tiradito, Barra M and Chambi.

Omar Malpartida, cocinero de Luma

Omar Malpartida, chef of Luma © Luma

The restaurant in question is called Luma, which mixes (we already started!) The two names of his two grandmothers, whom Omar considers his origins and also his first memories.

Of that, in three words, Luma goes: to gather, origins and memories. "Mothers are the origin of everything, and more grandmothers even more - he explains - and the last memory I have of my origins is my grandmothers, Lusmila and Maria, that's why the restaurant is called Luma."

In addition to them, the origin of the cook is the products, the raw material that arrives at your kitchen from different points and sets the counter to zero of the adventure.

He brings them (sometimes literally) from the most remote corners of Peru, to show them to us in the most recognizable way possible, to show us the most unknown side of Peru, which is here shaped like those stones of pilluana salt that are above the table and function as a primitive salt shaker or the collection of kombuchas, chichas, kefirs, which is visible on the shelves and present both in the kitchen and in the cocktail bar of Luma.

Barra de Luma

Luma Bar © Luma

The gathering (not merging) comes from joining two cultures in a single bite, the Spanish and the Peruvian. Hence, Piura with Ondarroa, León with Incahuasi or Tarapoto with Extremadura coexists in the same dish .

“The union is much purer than the fusion, it is done in a natural and simple way without obscuring the flavors of the product so that when you try them together something rich comes out, such as, for example, the Memory of a Lima cevichería, which is a slush of tiger's milk with an oyster from Galicia, but that when you try it reminds you of ceviche ”.

This idea is evident from the first bite, the crunchy cassava and saffron, accompanied with a chestnut cheese and a huacatay sauce, which is served as an appetizer baptized as Pachamama.

Nothing more Spanish than saffron and nothing more Andean than cassava to kick off a meal that with each dish brings surprise after surprise, especially if you choose one of the tasting menus (Menu Memories and Menu Origins, of 9 and 12 steps, respectively).

Aguacate de Luma

Luma Avocado © Luma

Memories starts with a very tasty broth of churos and periwinkles presented inside the shells themselves and continues with dishes such as potato with squid, black garlic and Lima; the banana patacón, Iberian pork, mishquina, chili pepper and tomato sacha (difficult to concentrate so much flavor in a single bite) and the fine pularda with yellow pepper, hazelnut, olive, which practically melts in the mouth and where the capital of Peru and Vera shake hands.

The Origins menu includes passes such as Lima Linda (avocado, cabracho, lemon zarandaja and lemon pepper); Asadito, (monkfish, yellow pepper, orange and beer ferment) and La Robla (morón, colmenilla and Incahuasi mushrooms) or Sauteed wild (deer, sweet pepper, cashew nut, cumin butter and pad choi).

Maíz, Luma

Ode to corn in Luma © Luma

Malpartida's obsession with discovering and making us travel does not end with the salty and continues with desserts, a new excuse to present “products from Peru that are not even consumed much in Peru, ” such as the fake tumbo, “an exotic fruit that does not we could eat directly here because it would spoil on the trip, and we reproduce with the same original form and appearance so that we can recognize it as it is. ”

Pichón oyuco

Pigeon oyuco © Luma

The same goes for coffees and infusions, which in this restaurant are given the attention they deserve. They are not served directly, they are taken to the table in a cart to choose the type of tea or infusion, to which dehydrated fruits, spices, etc. have been added, or the method of artisanal extraction of coffee, V60, Chemex e cold infusion, to get the maximum aroma of coffee, exclusively brought from Catamarca and Villarica (Cusco).

The winemaker is responsible for the sommelier who, faced with the challenge of accompanying a gastronomy that historically gets better with beer, bets on “ the sparkling and the whites, from the youngest to the most structured, traveling the world, but above all for Spain ”. Which does not mean that he neglects Atlantic red wines, " very tannic and a little lighter to withstand food ", and that he winks to the generous, "his weakness."

Like the food, the space itself, which has a bar part with tapas menu and dishes to share, another restaurant and a sought-after kitchen table; It also plays with the origins of Spain and Peru.

The colors that decorate the murals of the patio, for example, represent the neighborhoods of Lima; There are several cassava plants in the dining room, and the bar is made entirely of granite, which reminds us that we are in Madrid.

The union of both cultures is also seen in the garden with aromatic plants from the patio and in the lamps that decorate the entire restaurant, created by Latin American women with recycled material and the help of a Spanish contemporary artist.

Sala de Luma

Luma's room © Luma

In data

Address

Valenzuela, 7; 28014 Madrid

Phone

910 691 205/686 740 724

Schedule

From Tuesday to Saturday from 1:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. and from Monday to Saturday from 8:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Closed Monday noon and Sundays

Half price

Average price zone entrance: € 35. Short menu: € 60. Long menu: € 90

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The best ceviches in Spain