Romantic Cádiz: the city becomes tender


Reading time 5 minutes

I am sure that there is nothing better in the world than traveling in love . I think it because I know that traveling is understanding and because traveling you stop believing that you are the center of the world. Believe me: that is the only recipe (and what is a relationship, but a trip?) To travel hand in hand with another .

Una escapada romántica a Cádiz sólo apta para dos

A romantic getaway to Cádiz only suitable for two © Alamy

And I can't think of a better place to travel in love than Cádiz, home of the chirigotas and that Carnival (one of the Treasures of the Cultural Heritage in Spain) that illuminates its streets with all the colors of the world. Cádiz, the Cádiz we will talk about today, is that of that millenary city that starts at Puerta Tierra, the capital of the Bay; the one that you have heard so many times name as " Cai ".

A handful of neighborhoods full of civics, joy, culture and “ potholes ” (that's what bars are called here) and an impossible light that illuminates each of its 126 viewpoints . From the arches and walls of the Pópulo, the oldest neighborhood in Europe; to the taverns and the truth in every corner of El Barrio de la Viña . I don't know a place like that, anywhere. Homeland of the beach of La Caleta, flanked by the castles of San Sebastián and Santa Catalina, and the church of La Palma that closes the street of the same name, full of smells of saltpeter, nettles and fish.

Atardecer en Cádiz

This is really nice living © iStock


Because there is no better time to share silence (how nice it is to share silence …) than a quiet breakfast, and because reading together presages a future full of joys and tarantos. A perfect corner for breakfast with olive and tomato oil muffins is La Clandestina (José del Toro corner with Cardenal Zapata), where the sisters María and Lola Martín Arroyo Lopiz combine literature, vinyl, heat and love for culture: Reading is sexy!

To continue with the literary route (and take the first steps through the streets of Cai), visit Quorum on Calle Ancha and the occasional bookstores Raimundo . To get lost.

La Clandestina

The Clandestine © Jesús Terrés (@nadaimporta)


With an old book under his arm he touches the temple of civilized drinking : the Manzanilla Tavern of maestro Pepe García Gómez, standing since the beginning of the last century and faithful to his absolutely radical proposal: alone and nothing more than wines from Sanlúcar de Barrameda . No Coca-Cola, no beer, no snacks. Only chamomiles, cut sticks and a hundred-year-old mahogany wood bar from which it is impossible to separate: this is Cádiz.

“The tavern is a parenthesis in life, like the dream; and, like the dream, that parenthesis is fuller than life itself, ”Savater. A shared publication by Jesús Terrés (@nadaimporta) on Dec 11, 2016 at 1:11 PST
Natural wines. A shared publication by Jesús Terrés (@nadaimporta) on Dec 12, 2016 at 4:22 p.m. PST

After touring Feduchy Street we arrive at the Plaza de las Flores where another tavern is hidden, Juan Carlos Borrell's Surprise and Maria José where Delgado Zuleta flatbreads and wild bluefin tuna dishes are served (in addition to classic tapas such as salted mojama or his academic Gilda) from Almadraba de Barbate in sashimi, in carpaccio or in tartar.

Taberna Manzanilla

Drink and live © Taberna Manzanilla

To eat well, there is a choice, from the perfect frying of Paquito Abeijón in that sentimental homeland a little mine for so many years that it is El Adobo in Rosario Street (dogfish bowl, acedías, gilded, ventrechas, mackerel with periñaca or “ potato potatoes ”) until the creativity with sense of Mauro Barreiro in La Curiosidad de Mauro (in Veedor).

And, of course, going through the two timeless icons of the “very noble, very loyal and very heroic” Cádiz: El Faro, the seafaring tavern founded by Gonzalo Córdoba that still, still, still believes in fresh produce and short drinks -And also in the Vineyard you hear every day how life explodes in Casa Manteca.

Kisses, two chamomiles and chicharrones in this pothole that represents the true spiritual reserve of Andalusia as none

Taberna Manteca

The joy of eating and living © Facebook / Taberna Manteca


There isn't. Neither the sunset of so many sunsets in Madrid, "perfect in its blue and acacia color" (Ignacio Peyró) nor the gold and white of Florence or even the infinite melting pot of shades from any terrace of the Djemaa el Fna square in Marrakech. None like the sunset in front of La Caleta and the lighthouse of Castillo de San Sebastián … and this perfect mantle of ships and hopes.

It was late, my last sunset in La Caleta. Couples, families and penitents were already leaving the beach, looking (I suppose) for a table and a couple of bottles of wine. I resisted, for a while longer - suddenly, a sound from the sea: a group of kids with no clock, commitments or more plans than life. All the questions, all the doubts and all the paths can be summed up in that photograph, in that unforgettable moment: without hurry, without cold, without fear. Have a nice trip, pirate. A shared publication by Jesús Terrés (@nadaimporta) on Aug 15, 2016 at 11:40 p.m. PDT

It is time to leave. The most comfortable thing is to look for shelter in one of the apartments that populate the center (a tip: look for a house with an Andalusian patio) but as a perfect icing I can't think of a better plan than sunrise in front of the indigo and silver color of the Atlantic that offer the views from the Parador Hotel Atlántico, next to the Genovés park.

This is to live beautifully.

Parador Hotel Atlántico

Parador Hotel Atlántico © DR

Una escapada romántica a Cádiz sólo apta para dos

Earth with the smell of saltpeter, infinite sunsets and 'living beautifully' © Alamy